Garden Studios

DO YOUR figs drop off the tree, as hard as conkers, and are there figs to your tree at the moment, in November, that appear to be they could just make something of themselves if only it were August?

That’s exactly what happened to my fig tree, bought on a whim at a garden centre, until i spotted i used to be doing something wrong.

Thankfully I did know that fig tree roots ought to be constricted, in order that the plant puts all its efforts into producing fruit in place of putting down a never-ending root system in quest of water.

My fig tree is planted in compost in a wooden half barrel, with broken terracotta pots within the bottom to help drainage, and it’s in an exceedingly sheltered sunny spot.

I’ve had the tree for approximately three years now, although it’s only about 4ft tall, however it is clearly mature enough to supply, because this summer about half a dozen figs did grow sufficiently big – and ripe enough – to eat.

But twice as many shriveled up inside the spring or simply dropped off randomly, so i determined to determine where i used to be going wrong.

It seems I’m probably guilty of not watering it enough throughout the spring: it needs much more watering in a pot than if it were within the ground.

But, crucially, I’ve been leaving the half-grown figs on over winter inside the hope that they’re going to survive the winter.

These are those that ended up withered. The few that I did harvest were new fruit that were only pea-sized buds this time last year.

So today i’ve picked the eight small figs that were happily growing on it – after checking that there really were new buds at the twig-like branches.

And this winter I’m going to take somewhat more care of it than i’ve before, and throw a horticultural fleece over it if the nights (or days) turn Arctic.

The usual advice is to take pot-grown fig trees inside or into greenhouses over winter, but since I don’t have a greenhouse and the pot is just too heavy to go it might should stay where it’s.

Hopefully this will get through winter with none problems, then i will start dosing it up with tomato feed in April and ensure I water it daily during summer.

If you have got a large fig tree the proper time to prune that is in March, but mine seriously isn’t large enough yet, unless any of the branches die.

Whatever you do, though, don’t prune the hot wood back very far otherwise you won’t get any figs in any respect!

Snowdrops were somewhat confused this year. In the course of January, not having had a correct cold snap, up they pushed. But rather than sending up rockets of hard-tipped shoots (they’re in a position to piercing frozen snow), they sent up short-stemmed flowers so the white droplets hovered barely above the bottom.

In time they extended, however was a worrying moment for those not familiar with the recovery capabilities of winter plants and flowers.

When January is as mild as this one was, daffodils, narcissi, snowdrops and so forth can start pushing up their shoots much sooner than normal. But they may be all hardy plants, well equipped to resist low temperatures, and when frost and snow follow mild spells, the plants simply slip into suspended animation, slowing down or stopping their growth until the temperatures rise again. Only later in spring do frosts really do harm.

When they occur at blossom time, with fruit trees together with apples, plums and pears, they could nip the flowers a lot that the central part is browned and fruit is prevented from developing.

That said, peaches and apricots grown on walls do flower early within the year so it’ll be worth maintaining a tally of them and draping the branches with muslin or old net curtains on cold nights to assist preserve a point or two and provides them a greater chance of setting fruit.

As for the snowdrops, once they finish flowering they’re inside the best state for digging up, dividing and transplanting. I’m not suggesting you do that frequently. The fantastic thing about snowdrops is that when planted they are often left alone – no amount of overcrowding seems to fret them, they only carry on spreading that is what most folks want. But when it’s essential make more plantations, planting them “in the green” instead of as dry bulbs in autumn is a more reliable approach to ensuring their survival.

Dig up a clump once the flowers fade and divide it. Don’t waste it slow separating the only bulbs, but break them into clusters of half a dozen or so and plant these mini-clumps a couple of foot apart, and on the same depth as they were growing before, in any half-decent soil in dappled shade or between shrubs. Or naturalise them in a corner of the lawn, planting them within the turf; they’ll wilt and look sad for some time but then they must pick up and finally the foliage will die down and disappear.  

Next year, just whilst you had forgotten where you planted them, up they may push and cheer you inside the darkest months of the year. And hopefully next year they are going to push up within the more normal fashion, beginning to flower at 4in high in preference to at ground level. Well, you can’t say we don’t get variety!

Don’t miss Alan’s gardening column today and each day within the Daily Express. For more info on his range of gardening products, visit alantitchmarsh.com.

FROM potted herbs to garden scented candles, watering cans and ornamental gardening gloves you will discover the proper present in your outdoorsy family in our gift collection.

1. Herb planter, £35, Sparrow & Finch (01892 861202 sparrowandfinch.co.uk)

2. Gardener’s tuck tin, £34, Whisk Hampers (01483 211926, whiskhampers.co.uk)

3. The Thoughtful Gardener fork & trowel set, £22.99, Not the standard (0121 233 1245, nottheusual.co.uk)

4. Flower garden gloves, £15, Orla Kiely (020 7720 1117, orlakiely.com)

5. Insect hotel, £20, Roullier White (020 8693 5150, roullierwhite.com)

6. Planting set, £10, Tesco (0845 600 4411, tesco.com)

7. From the Garden of… stamp set, £14.99, The Oak Room (01707 257175, oakroomshop.co.uk)

8. Garrigue scented candle, £16, Branche d’Olive (01235 771254, branche-dolive.com)

9. Gardeners 60 Second Fix for Hands, £24, Crabtree & Evelyn (0800 111 4406, crabtreeevelyn.co.uk)

10. Watering can, £12, Wilko (08456 080807, wilko.com)

Mugs, from £2.49, Dunelm Mill (0845 165 6565, dunelm-mill.com);

Roberts radio in pale green, £199, Littlewoods (0844 822 8000, littlewoods.com);

garden lantern, £69 for 2, ACHICA (achica.com);

wheelbarrow, from a ramification at B&Q (0845 609 6688, diy.com);

watering can in lime, £9.95;Rosa Chinensis gift set including trowel, fork, secateurs, kneeler and gloves, £64.95, all Burgon & Ball (0114 233 8262, burgonandball.com);

small lantern, £6, Wilko (08456 080807, wilko.com);

wreath, £20, Tesco (0845 600 4411, tesco.com);

women’s Evedon wellies, £79.95, Joules (0845 250 7170, joules.com)

But while many folks start planting daffodils and narcissi enthusiastically in September, when it’s time to plant tulips in November some gardeners have run out of steam.

That should be would becould very well be because although high quality tulips perform brilliantly of their first season, they can be disappointing and even non-existent within the second and third years.

This is because many of the tulips we buy are hybrid cultivars – a mixture of several different species bred to provide large flowers, tall stems and a rainbow of colors which were fed and specially treated to position on only one exceptional show.

Many professional gardeners use them as bedding plants, replacing them each year with new bulbs.

But it’s possible to purchase hardy species tulips to be able to flower year after year, identical to they do within the wild – in countries akin to Turkey, Greece, Israel and Jordan but mainly Central Asia.

Species tulips tend to be much smaller than their hybrid cousins, with slimmer leaves, shorter stems and far more delicate flowers in subtle colours.

For instance, Tulipa humilis are lower than four inches (10cms) high and Tulipa tardi only reach about six inches (15cm). Both have delicate, open flowers in April, although the Tulipa humilis may start flowering in March and is scented in addition to being appealingly fragile.

Species tulips are frequently seen in rockeries or containers because they prefer well-draining soil, but so do all tulips.

They should all thrive in sandy or gritty soil, but when you will have heavier soil you are able to dig in home-made compost to enhance drainage and plant small species tulips on the front of a border.

Whether you elect species tulips or the more flamboyant cultivars, both require sunny positions in well-draining soil or containers.

They are best planted virtually one another in groups rather then as lonely soldiers on their lonesome – about four to 6 inches apart for hybrids and closer for species.

Use a trowel to dig a hole a minimum of twice as deep as each bulb, although in the event you plant them deeper there’ll be room to grow smaller bulbs similar to snowdrops and grape hyacinth on top.

Put a handful of grit within the bottom of every hole to help drainage, or dig a trench and line it with grit then plant groups of bulbs to create drifts of colour.

Place the bulbs flat-side down and pointy prove – although they are going to right themselves whichever way you plant them.

If your soil is especially heavy, you want to add some grit to the soil you cover the bulbs with, to aid drainage much more and prevent them from rotting.

There are dozens of tulips to select from as a way to mean you can decide you can take a look at people with an RHS Award of Garden Merit, that have been rigorously trialled.

RHS recommendations include the Tulipa ‘China Pink’, a sublime lipstick-pink flower; Tulipa ‘Spring Green’, a fragile white flower with yellowy-green stripe; Tulipa ‘Happy Generation’, a huge white flower with flame red streaks, and Tulipa ‘Apricot Parrot’, a ruffled apricot and green flower.

Whatever you decide – species or cultivar, RHS recommended or not – November is the time to plant them, now that the chance of fungal disease is reduced.

The Lincolnshire garden might be open until February 23, much to the delight of its owner Ursula Cholmeley, who has rebuilt this “lost” garden over 14 years.

“We have two main sorts of snowdrop within the grounds. Galanthus nivalis and G. nivalis ‘flora pleno’ (the conventional singles and doubles) which form drifts at the snowdrop bank. These are the simplest to grow,” says Ursula.

“In the woodland walk the snowdrops combine with cyclamen coum, aconites and hellebores.

“In the cedar meadow, aconites and snowdrops poke in the course of the turf across the big wellingtonia and Atlantic cedars, and within the cottage garden and pickery we’ve got Galanthus plicatus, G. ‘Freds Giant’ and G ‘Jacquenetta’.” 

Ursula was planting unusual snowdrops within the new alpine bed, and these would be added to throughout 2014. 

During the week snowdrops expert Jackie Murray will give talks within the coach house at 12.30pm and a pair of.30pm daily, and snowdrops including small numbers of rare varieties and a few iris reticulata would be on sale.

These will include Galanthus Trym, G. Modern Art, G. Bowles Large, G. Washfield Colesbourne, G. Marjorie Brown, G. John Gray, G. Mrs McNamara, and the actual Galanthus ikariae.

“We have some beautiful double hellebores in plum, clear pink, white and yellow on the market,” adds Ursula. 

The weather has had little impact at the snowdrop display, and Ursula says: “When the sun is out the gardens look really spring-like and entire of promise.”

Easton Walled Garden’s snowdrop bank is barely open during Snowdrop Week and for a couple of weeks in March, but while each of the paths are laid with bark and feature handrails and seats, the gardens are in a valley so good outdoor shoes are recommended.

Snowdrops can be bought at the website: www.shopateaston.co.uk where you will discover information on entrance fees and the way to get to the gardens.

Novice gardeners often think fruit trees are loads of work, but really the elemental rules are quite simple (especially if you’re growing standard apples or pears, instead of elaborately trained cordons or espaliers). Pruning is completed between November and mid-March, when the tree is dormant and leafless, unless it’s a normal plum or cherry, that’s best not pruned in any respect (do it in early summer if it’s essential).

Routine pruning

Start by “opening up” the centre of the tree to let in additional light and air. First, use secateurs or a pruning saw to chop out any water shoots (long, thin straight shoots) from the purpose where they grow out of the branch or trunk. Next, use a pruning saw to take away any small branches that grow inwards, towards the centre of the tree. Cut these back to the purpose where they join a bigger, outward-growing branch. 

Now work your way around the outside of the tree, trying to find branches which are too close together or which rub against one another in windy weather so the bark is being chafed. Don’t bother snipping twigs – it’s better to take away an entire small branch to thin out an overcrowded component of the tree, leaving the remainder fairly well spaced out. 

Lastly, look the tree over, checking for outline shape, and shorten any branches that stick out badly in a single direction. Use the pruning saw to trim them back to the junction with a well-placed branch in order that the form of the tree is improved. Don’t leave projecting stubs, as they die back and spread disease.

Rejuvenating an elderly unproductive fruit tree

A tree hasn’t necessarily reached the top of its useful life simply because it doesn’t produce much fruit, looks craggy or is roofed with lichen. Careful attention can bring it back into useful cropping, but after all it can be worth preserving for the nature it lends the garden.

Prune as described above, but only do some each winter over several years. quite a few very hard pruning abruptly just encourages plenty of water shoots to grow, and these are useless as they spoil the look of the tree and don’t carry fruit for a few years. Don’t try to convert a gnarled old tree to a standard shape. Instead, enjoy its eccentric charm – you can’t buy ’em like that. 

To encourage new growth, clear a two-yard-wide circle of bare soil all around the tree and keep it free from weeds. In spring, mulch this area heavily with well-rotted manure or garden compost, and in April sprinkle a generous dose of general-purpose fertiliser equivalent to blood, fish and bone everywhere in the mulched area, and water it in if the soil is dry. Repeat the feed in midsummer, around June, again watering if the soil is dry. Don’t remove lichen – it’s not doing any harm and adds character.

If the tree produces heavy crops that weigh the branches down badly, hold them up with forked wooden supports, like old-fashioned clothes props. You may leave these in place year-round and use them to support clematis or climbing roses, that could then scramble up in the course of the tree. 

Even a fully unproductive tree can be utilized as a support for several climbers, instead of cutting it down. Dig an enormous planting hole for every climber about six feet from the bottom of the trunk to bypass the tree roots, infill with good topsoil and garden compost for the reason that soil should be impoverished, and plant into that. Use leaning branches or dangling rope to guide each climber up into the tree branches. Once in place, they’re going to scramble without help and – better of all – won’t need any pruning in any respect. 

The spring blossom will always be pretty; in the summertime it’s cloaked with varying shades of green and within the autumn the leaves will colour your garden golden – and you may even have apples to eat.

So this being Bramley Apple week (February 2-8), why not treat yourself to a brand new apple tree?

Bare-rooted fruit trees will generally establish themselves more easily than the container-grown kind, but they have to be planted while the tree remains to be dormant – so that you have only really got until the top of this month.

Even so, don’t exit and purchase anything in case your soil is frozen solid or waterlogged, although when you have already ordered them from specialist nurseries you possibly can plant them in a short lived position for per week or two to prevent the roots drying out.

Bramley apple trees are the most popular in Britain, since the apples are big and sweet – you don’t really want so as to add sugar after you cook them.

However, usually, they don’t seem to be self-pollinating and wish pollen from two other apple trees that flower collectively as them in an effort to bear fruit.

There are dozens of apple tree cultivars which are compatible, so ask on the nursery you’re buying from which they’d recommend. a whole lot depends upon what they’ve in stock.

Just do not forget that you’re unlikely to have room for 3 full-size apple trees, so choose trees grown on dwarf or half-standard root stock – unless your neighbours have apple trees conveniently close.

To plant your tree, dig a square hole deep enough to face the roots up in, and add home-made compost or other organic matter to the underside of the outlet, or other soil conditioner.

Knock a stake into the bottom, a bit off-centre in order that there’s space for the tree, then place the tree within the hole and begin filling in with soil.

Make sure you don’t plant it any deeper than it was previously planted by laying a bamboo stick over the center of the opening so that you have a greater idea of where the head of the soil will reach.

Firm the soil down, tie the tree to the stake using a figure of eight tie to prevent the bark rubbing against it then water well – and keep it watered during any dry spells during its first year. Should we ever get any.

Star performers include its glorious maples – Acer rubrum ‘October Glory’ – a majestic tulip tree that turns a yellow gold, the burnt orange leaves of the turkey oak and an avenue of lime trees that turn pale yellow-green.

There can also be still various colour within the magnificent herbaceous borders that edge the overall length of the Long Pond.

Visit this weekend and you’ll see Mexican Sunflowers still out in force in addition to burnished orange heleniums.

Dahlias and Michaelmas daisies also are lighting up the border, and there are giant marrows to determine within the historic walled vegetable garden.

Forde Abbey has 30 acres of gardens that were once element of a monastery near Chard, in Somerset.

The Long Pond dates back to the center Ages however the formal gardens were created within the 18th century by Sir Francis Gwyn, who had the lower three ponds dug out and the cascade built.

The Centenary Fountain – England’s tallest powered water jet – was added in 2005 and is derived on thrice an afternoon, and staff at the moment are engaged on a winter walk.

The gardens are open daily from 10am and the historic house opens on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays.

There is a tearoom, gift shop and plant centre, with Christmas shopping starting on November 1 until December 8, when the gardens would be free to go to. Dogs on leads are welcome too.

For additional information visit www.fordeabbey.co.uk

Many plants – not only climbers – look well against a wall, especially if you’re lucky enough to have mellowed brick or stone 

in your garden. But while some plants will thrive, the foot of a wall is essentially quite an inhospitable environment, and anything that struggles with heat, drought or strong sunlight need to be avoided.

Prepare your soil

Soil on the foot of any wall is invariably poor and dry, because the wall deflects rain while foundations and buried rubble take in a number of the available moisture. If you’ll be growing true drought-tolerant plants, it’s enough simply to work in some well-rotted compost to reinforce what’s there already. 

But in the event you plan to grow sun-loving fruit, wall shrubs or climbers, dig out all of the soil and rubble right down to a depth of 18ins, then replace it with good-quality topsoil mixed 50:50 with well-rotted organic matter, to make a bed 2ft wide that runs the whole length of that component of wall. 

Growing semi-tender wall shrubs

A south-facing wall soaks up sun and stores warmth even in winter, so it’s possible to grow semi-tender plants that may not survive within the open garden. To profit from this effect, train slightly delicate shrubs flat over the wall, tying them to netting, trellis or horizontal wires supported by nails. Plants to exploit include phygelius (cape figwort), pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri), Fremontodendron californicum, ceanothus and Carpenteria californica.

Choosing climbers

Roses: Grow warmth-loving climbers Rosa “Mermaid”, Rosa “Madame Gregoire Stachelin” and Rosa banksiae cultivars (all very large-growing). Or in a smaller space, train the huge, very fragrant-flowered, old-fashioned bush rose “Madame Isaac Pereire” out flat against the wall.

Woody climbers: Opt for the trumpet vine (campsis), trachelospermum, jasminum, purple grape vine and tri-coloured Ampelopsis brevipedunculata “Elegans”.

Pick warmth-loving fruit

Grapes and figs both benefit from the slight root restriction created by a bed with a wall along one side and a path at the other, while warm, sunny conditions help considerably with fruit ripening. Kiwi fruit also thrive on this situation (plant a female and male or choose a selection known to provide both female and male flowers to verify pollination). 

Fan-trained peaches, nectarines and apricots produce heavy crops on south-facing walls, and it’s easy to offer protection to the notoriously early flowers from frosts by draping plants with fleece overnight (remove it by day to permit insects access for pollination). 

Pears ripen reliably on this situation – to make best use of the gap, opt for gourmet varieties similar to “Williams’ Bon Chrétien” and “Doyenné du Comice”. 

Drought lovers

For a showy yet low-maintenance, year-round bed, choose drought-loving perennials comparable to hardy hippeastrum and nerine, bearded iris, osteospermum, sedum, crocus and tulip, set against a backdrop of drought-proof climbers or wall-trained shrubs. 

Sun-loving annuals and bedding plants which include argyranthemum and pelargonium need good soil, frequent watering and liquid feeding, plus regular deadheading to thrive, so avoid those if you’re wanting time. Hardy annuals sown straight into the soil are essentially the most self-reliant, but even they’ll need some watering in hot, dry weather. 

Looking after your plants

Plant semi-tender shrubs and climbers in May after winter is past, in order that they have an entire summer to get established before having to outlive a chilly spell. Water plants (even true drought lovers) from the time they’re first planted until they may be established and growing well. Mulch and feed fruit and vigorous climbers or shrubs in late April/May. Liquid-feed fruit, and have the ability to water regularly while crops swell and ripen if the soil is extremely dry, or install an irrigation pipe.

Solving problems

Ants enjoy hot, dry, sunny conditions, and in the event that they nest, they undermine the roots of recent plants. Flush nests out with a lot of water or specialised products. Powdery mildew often affects certain plants growing on hot, dry walls in late summer and autumn, worsened by over-dry roots, so water well on the first signs. Pick off badly affected leaves or spray with fungicide. 

Plant of the week

Kaffir lily (Clivia miniata)

If it is kept too hot, it won’t flower, so it’s infrequently sold as a home plant. But now we’re turning the warmth right down to save costs, it’s worth on the lookout for since there aren’t many exotic-looking, winter-flowering plants that thrive in thrifty heating. It’s also easy to grow, given a couple of basic rules. In winter, keep it in a groovy room at 40-50°F without feed and only minimal water. Increase watering in spring, then in summer keep it as cool as you may and in light shade (a north windowsill indoors is ok, because it will scorch in full sunlight). Water fairly generously and apply occasional doses of well-diluted liquid tomato feed until autumn.

What to do within the garden this week

If your yew, privet or box hedges are overgrown, curb one side hard now. Pull ivy and tree seedlings out of hedge bases.

Assemble raised-bed kits or put money into large patio containers to create a potted kitchen garden near the back door.

There’s still time to plant bare-rooted shrubs, hedging plants, roses and fruit – you may continue until mid-March.

Complete winter digging when the elements permits. On the way to make an early start, cover prepared soil with black plastic so it warms up without sprouting a covering of weeds.